Babaji, review: Pizza is so passé here – it's all about the pide

This Theatreland Turkish restaurant is swapping pizza for pide
The interior of Babaji
Ailis Brennan11 December 2017

If you can say “Peet-za” you can say “Pee-day”. You can also eat it too, very much in the same way.

Soho’s Babaji specialises in the Turkish version of the Italian classic. Feather light, fluffy flatbreads are all topped Istanbul-style, from the spinach, kaşar cheese, onion and chilli-laden Temel Reis to the refreshing but satisfying Kiymali with minced lamb, fresh tomato and pepper.

Babaji comes from the mind of Alan Yau, creator of Wagamama, Busaba Eathai and Hakkasan, king of taking kicking off global cuisine trends. Downstairs has a bustle reminiscent of a Turkish café, providing a peculiar parallel with the city cacophony through the window. Upstairs is closer to a Turkish bath – with blue-violet tiles glistening across the walls and ceilings, you wouldn’t be surprised if your third course was an aromatic body wrap.

Meze eating is the way at Babaji. Bulk up your pide order with Babaji’s fabulous flame-grilled meats – the chicken shish is gobsmackingly succulent – and don’t forget the dips. The humus will have you bickering over the last scoop, and is also an excuse to order more of their excellent flatbread. Get fresh with their tomato and walnut salad, scattered generously with pomegranate seeds.

Babaji Pide is wholly unexpected occurrence in Theatreland – reasonably priced, good, freshly prepared food and you probably won’t have to queue for three years. Service is a little relaxed, but when diving in from Shaftesbury Avenue, this is rather welcome.

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