Five things Fay Maschler ate this week

Our restaurant critic hunts for her best West End breakfast and enjoys the familiarity that comes with good, family-run restaurants
22 August 2013

1. On my West End best breakfast hunt The Balcon in Pall Mall comes tops for ease of parking (in Waterloo Place). But kedgeree resembling haddock risotto and dematerialising waiting staff don’t score so highly.

2. Family-run restaurants suit family generations. Reg, my elder daughter Hannah, her chap, their children and me find much to like — including stout lamb cutlets — at Vasis in Cleveland Street.

3. Reg comes back from Newmarket with Musk’s pork sausages (pictured) from Eric Tennant Butchers. Best in the land. The Queen Mum had them delivered to Clarence House.

4. Mark White, aka Marky Market (07939 526202), delivers hand-picked produce from Smithfield and Billingsgate. Two beautiful young grouse to which I add arguably perfect bread sauce.

5. Tom Salt, River Café-trained chef at Manicomio, is celebrating 10 years of his greatest hits. Notable pappardelle with rabbit and milk-roasted chicken.

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