Mamma Mia, Osteria Emilia is bellissima

I'd heard that the owners of Giacobazzi's, a hugely popular Italian deli in Hampstead, had converted the premises across the road into their first restaurant, Osteria Emilia, and thought it was time to check it out. We decided to tootle up for lunch then loll around on the Heath, and make a lovely afternoon of it. There were casual tables in front of the counter, but we went upstairs to the small dining space, which felt more Nordic than Italian. Think pointy-roofed loft conversion designed by Ikea.

Lunch didn't start well - there were only two other tables occupied yet already their cupboard was bare. Just two starters were offered, sword fish was off and we weren't impressed with the mains options. But the classic starters were delicious - and huge. A prosciutto e melone (£6) groaned with tender, thick folds of Parma ham and a platter of creamily fresh caprese di mozzarella di bufala (£5.50) was similarly vast. In terms of quality ingredients, the mains were good. A pan-fried sea bass with tomatoes and rocket (£13) was a winner - crispy on top, buttery soft beneath. I had the "special" sea bass ravioli (£12) whose strong, bold flavours kept you interested in what can be a samey pasta dish. I'd been saving a tiramisu space for pudding, only to find there wasn't any. It's made during the day, so it sets by evening service.

But after a sinfully good torta di ciocolatta (£6.50), a moist nutty Italian take on a brownie that made us wish we hadn't shared, I knew that I'd definitely be checking out their deli - if not coming back for seconds at sundown!

Osteria Emilia
Fleet Road, London, NW3 2QY