Modern fish restaurant with a conscience

10 April 2012

Deep stepped into the deep end when it opened at Imperial Wharf.

The Wharf is teetering on the brink of being a trendy new gastro destination, having a flock of restaurants and blocks of chic apartments with the obligatory river views.

When the development is thriving and all the flats (sorry, apartments) have been sold, Deep will be sitting pretty.

Until then it is an elegant restaurant that is something of a hidden gem.

The mainsprings of the place are a couple called Sandefeldt: he is the chef and she runs the front of house.

The food is broadly Scandinavian and heavily fish-orientated.

Sandefeldt is passionate about fish and it shows in the dishes; he is also keen on using only sustainable fish and has an annual charity - when he opened, his diners were each asked to make a £1 donation to the World Wildlife Fund.

Some dishes even have the Marine Stewardship Council logo.

But underneath all the worthy stuff is some accurately cooked, ultra-fresh fish.

Starters may include a creamy mussel soup with a centrepiece of a dollop of crab meat and a quail's egg; the selection of herrings is stunning; there's an octopus salad.

Mains range from a plain grilled Dover sole; to lemon smoked tuna; pan-fried fillet of bream; or steamed fillet of salmon.

The cooking is accomplished and presentation very elegant.

The wine list has reasonably priced bottles and whizzy ones, but be very wary of the twenty or so different aquavits on offer.

Deep
The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, SW6 2UB

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