Revelling in Persian origins

This review was first published in January 2002

There is no set-price menu at THE PARSEE, so there goes that Bib Gourmand qualification theory. There are, however, specials which enhance an already intriguing menu devised by Cyrus Todiwala, of Cafe Spice Namaste fame, himself a Parsee.

The names of the dishes, for example dhaan daar nay kolmi no patio or Mumbai no frankie or dahi ma jungli soover nu vindaloo, initially convey little and make you feel something of a clot when ordering, but they are carefully translated on the menu. So rather than asking for badian ma haran na bota, you can say "we'll have the char-grilled venisonî. Do say that because it is one of the best treatments of venison I have come across.

Parsee cooking reveres its Persian origins and displays a marked enthusiasm for eggs, vegetables and fresh herbs as well as the lamb, lentil and rice assembly called dhaansak, a dish invariably traduced in generic Indian restaurants. A first-course special we tried was eggs baked on a bed of vegetables, which was excellent, but so, I remember from last time, is the achoori, spiced scrambled eggs, which features on the main menu.

The frankie, as the waiter referred to it, is another first course not to miss. Dry-spiced diced lamb mixed with fresh herbs is rolled in a roti then a coating of beaten egg before being grilled. Marcha nay marina pug is a spiced and grilled chicken leg and thigh notable for the muscular texture of a well-bred bird.

Stars of the main course were the chargrilled venison, mentioned above, and also a vegetable dish of the cutest baby okra, snappy with freshness, stir-fried with onions, chilli, garlic and cumin and given an edge with a squeeze of lime juice. The young staff at The Parsee are dedicated in a way that gratifyingly reflects the traditions of a venerable religion and civilisation.

Pictures in the simply decorated premises salute the angel Farohar as well as more worldly successful Parsees such as Sir Dorabji Tata, founder of India's iron ore industry.

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