Top Fives: Modern Japanese

Nobu can certainly be credited with sparking our passion for the not-so-anally-traditional style of Japanese restaurant. What used to be expenses-only halls of hushed reverence are now cool temples of designer grooviness.

1. Defune

Even the revered and ohsotraditional Defune (it still has the kimonoclad waitresses) has gone diffusion in its new premises, with a more funky and laid-back upstairs section. Unlike downstairs, the bill doesn't require breathing apparatus.
34 George Street W1. Tel: 020 7935 8311. Tube: Bond Street

2. Itsu

Many are sniffy about this operation from Pret A Manger founder Julian Metcalfe, but it's fun if you're not seeking perfection. Conveyor belts trundle round interesting evolutions on the conventional and there's a flirty bar upstairs.
118 Draycott Avenue SW3. Tel: 020 7584 5522..Tube: South Kensington

3. Mju

Australia's Tetsuya Wakuda brings his exquisite - and exquisitely pricey - take on Japanese/French fusion to this anodyne room in Knightsbridge. Portions are tiny, artfully presented mouthfuls of flavour.
Millennium Knightsbridge, 17 Sloane Street SW1. Tel: 020 7201 6330. Tube: Knightsbridge

4. Ubon

I'm alone in preferring Ubon to its more esteemed sibling Nobu: there's less attitude and the location - jutting out into the river from Canary Wharf - is eye-popping.
34 Westferry Circus E14. Tel: 020 7719 7800. Tube: Canary Wharf

5. Tsunami

I'm also a lone voice when it comes to not being massively impressed with this newcomer, but others can't get enough of it. Now award-winning, some say it's better than Nobu.
Unit 3, 1-7 Voltaire Road SW4. Tel: 020 7978 1610. Tube: Clapham North