Mulberry's new creative director has revealed his make-or-break collection for the fashion house was inspired by “biker chic, Dr Martens and kilts”, as well as a lifelong love affair with British design.
Johnny Coca received a rapturous reception at his London Fashion Week catwalk debut, with dancer Jenny Bastet, Noel Gallagher’s daugher Anais, actresses Anna Brewster and Noomi Rapace, and singer-songwriter Jack Penate in the front row.
Coca was poached from French fashion house Celine to turn around the luxury brand after a difficult few years. At a glitzy after-party at The Box Soho nightclub, he said: “I didn’t feel pressure, I just wanted to make a success for the company.”
The show’s centrepiece, the over-the-shoulder Clifton with a gold chain strap, was swiftly heralded as one of this season’s “must have” handbags.
The Spanish-born designer, who was educated in Paris, said: “I wanted to bring a lot of influences from the UK - on the silhouette on the attitude, the colours and the treatment. I love McQueen, Vivienne Westwood… there are so many British references I love."
"When I was really young I was looking at the McQueen show and said, ‘Oh my God, it’s amazing’. All the time I have been so focused on the UK fashion because it’s more extreme and eccentric - it was closer to my direction in a way.
“I’m more like biker and Doc Martens, I love kilts. I have so many kilts. All this influences you.
This was Mulberry’s first catwalk show since Hill left in 2013 and Coca said: “The important thing was to bring a strong brief, making sure you keep the craft of the company. I’m happy.”
