Schiaparelli couture: Guyon puts on poised debut show carefully placing his signature on the house

The Italian fashion designer Bertrand Guyon unveiled his debut collection for revived fashion house Schiaparelli in Paris this morning.

Taking to the catwalk on the second day of the city's haute couture showcase, Guyon, who comes to the house from Rome-based Valentino, showcased a collection within which he sought to blend the essence of cosmopolitan life into a collection intended for today's women.

Guyon, who stepped into the role of design director in April following the departure of Marco Zanini, is also tasked with respectfully reviving the memory of Elsa Schiaparelli who founded her eponymous label in 1930.

Schiaparelli, who was born in Rome in 1890, would undoubtedly have approved of Guyon's Italian routes. And as Guyon confirmed with his collection today, she would have approved of his skill as a designer too.

Respectfully riffing on the house's tried and tested codes, the designer unveiled strapless gowns printed with sketches from the Thirties and Forties - some were penned by Schiaparelli herself others came from friends and influencers of the period.

Guyon also chose to inject this collection with a dose of the great fashion dame's favourite shade of shocking pink - notably through the inclusion of one flowing chiffon gown which closed the show.

Taking the idea of the city - a subject close to cosmopolitan Schiaparelli's heart - the designer set out to create super lux clothes which fused the chic culture of Paris with a hint of London's fantasy and extravagance. This was achieved through the inclusion of blouson sleeve shirts and capes in heavy suit plaid. Beaded trousers suits - another Schiaparelli signature - were included to evoke the vertical landscape of New York.

Guyon's debut was carefully a poised one through which he gently attempted to place his own signature on the house. A-line gowns in embossed jacquard echoed those synonymous with Valentino while oversized coats also reminded those in attendance of the designer's skill as one with a shrewd understanding how to create ethereal elegance.

The collection marks a new beginning for the couture label which was revived just two years ago by luxury mogul Diego Della Valle. Guyon is the third designer to unveil a couture collection for the iconic house during this short period.